Sanding Grit Guide
Skipping grits costs you time: deep scratches come back through primer and paint. Pick your job and follow the grit-by-grit path. Every step links to discs we have in stock in that exact grit.
Strip paint or rust to bare metal
P40
P80
Pro tip: Blow off and clean with wax & grease remover before applying filler or epoxy primer.
Shape and finish body filler
P40
Knock down the high spots and rough shape (use a board or block on flat panels)
P80
P180
Final-shape the filler and remove P80 scratches before primer
Pro tip: Use a guide coat between grits so you can see low spots and scratches you missed.
Featheredge paint around a repair
P80
P180
P240
Refine the featheredge so primer fills it without sand-scratch swelling
Pro tip: A wide, gradual featheredge stops the repair outline from showing through the topcoat.
Sand primer-surfacer before basecoat
P320
P400
P500
Final sand for metallic and pearl colors (or go to P600 by hand)
Pro tip: Finer final grits matter more with metallics and light colors. Sand scratches show through.
Prep a panel for blending or single-stage
P500
P600
P800
Final scuff for single-stage paint and clear-only blend zones
Pro tip: Use a grey scuff pad and scuff paste in edges and tight areas a DA can't reach.
Remove clearcoat defects (dirt nibs, runs, orange peel)
P1500
P2000
P3000
Final refine so compound removes scratches in one pass
Pro tip: Follow with a cutting compound on a wool or foam cutting pad, then polish.
General rules
- Don't jump more than about 100 grit numbers at a time below P400, or double the grit number above it (P400 → P800).
- Use a guide coat between every grit so you can see when the previous scratches are gone.
- Need discs that fit your sander? Use our Sanding Disc & Pad Matcher.
Grit sequences are typical professional recommendations. Always follow your paint and filler manufacturer's technical data sheet.